Professional fitting Instructions
HE1 Range and "Snake"
1) Saddle Notes
2) Saddle & Slot Routing
3) Saddle Material
4) Dummy Saddle Testing
5) Saddle Fitting Aim
6) Assess Saddle Flatness
7) Saddle Bedding Down
8) String Biasing
9) String Balance Improvements
10) National & Dobro P/U Fitting
11) Harp, Hammer Dulcimer & Ud P/U Fitting
12) Pickup Don’t Do’s
13) Piezo Principles
14) Pickup Entering Slot
15) Pickup routing - Moveable Bridges
16) Custom Pickups
17) Controls Fitting On Board
- through sides
- non-intrusive pre-setting
18) Drilling Template for Controls
19) Battery Unit Fitting
- HE1
- Snake
- External Pre-amp Notes
20) Custom Battery Fitting
- “f” hole & National
21) External Battery Box
22) Jack Socket Fitting
- 2 piece end pin
- 1 piece end pin
- Panel sockets
- Non-intrusive line socket
23) Re-Wiring Jack Sockets
24) Wire Location
25) Multi Pickup Fitting
- Custom Wiring
- “Y” lead construction
26) Custom Controls Additions
27) Earthing Notes
28) Problem Checklist Referral
29) FEQ Notes
30) External “X” System notes
31) Guitar & Mandolin Adjustable Bridge P/U Fitting
1) SADDLE NOTES - With its rounded profile, the HE1 &
“Snake” Pickup is less likely to suffer imbalances from staggering
the saddle for intonation. In addition, there is less likelihood of
imbalances from saddle twisting, than with flat P/U’s.
2) SADDLE & SLOT ROUTING can be performed using the Luthiers
Mercantile International Inc “Bridge Saddle Routing Jig” (SPBSRJ)
combined with the Precision Miniature Router Base (SPPMR) which
accommodates compact Routers, either the recommended “Black &
Decker Wizzard” TM, or the Dremel Multi -Pro (formally Moto-Tool).
Alternatively, you may use the Guitar Systems Vacu-jig or
Stuart-Macdonald Bridge Saddle Routing Jig, combined with a compact
Router.
The bridge base slot is best being machined half round (concave), to
close engineering tolerances, by the preferred, horizontal milling,
using a fine, solid Carbide 2.5mm milling bit. Alternatively, it may
be milled flat. However, half round routing achieves faster, simpler
string balances and a slight improvement in tone.
When using the compact routing machines, cleaner routing is obtained
when the depth is taken out a little at a time.
The strings should NOT go closer than 4mm (0.16”) from the tip of
the pickup. If possible, when building an instrument, allow a longer
distance (1cm) either side of string courses. This will more easily
help achieve string balances.
3) SADDLE MATERIAL - The saddle material should be the
favoured bone, Ivory, Tusq, or Micarta. However, while synthetic
material is sometimes regarded as slightly more consistent than bone
for string balances on U/ Saddle pickups, we prefer bone.
HEADWAY DOES NOT RECOMMEND COREAN (BECAUSE OF ITS SOFT,
FLEXIBLE NATURE), BRASS, OR NON-SPECIFIC PLASTICS.
Beef shinbone is a favourite for its density, although veined parts
of bone should be avoided.
Headway reminds you that ivory should only be purchased where
sold through legitimate routes, antique or fossilised, in view
of the threat to endangered Wildlife from Poachers.
4) DUMMY SADDLE TESTING - The correct saddle height may be
found by testing the strung up action with an unfitted piece of
dummy saddle material, before replicating its height for the correct
action, with the actual saddle itself. This helps to ensure that you
do not take too much material from the bottom of the actual saddle.
A fine file, or block with “Wet & Dry” may suffice.
5) SADDLE FITTING AIM: The saddle should be tight enough to
remain upright and avoid being tilted under string pressure, but
loose enough to fall out by its own weight.
6) ASSESS SADDLE FLATNESS - As a means for assessing the
flatness of a saddle, you may rub a graphite pencil evenly onto an
absolutely flat, rigid surface (e.g. a steel, float glass or good
mirror), and while holding the saddle in the middle, run the part
over it a few times to see where graphite is deposited, denoting
where contact is being made. This may be repeated, by wiping the
saddle and holding different ends of the saddle to get a wider
picture.
The most common error on non-machined seating, is to have eroded
more off the saddle underside from one or both ends, than in the
middle. This increases the likelihood of finding a poor response on
top and/or bottom strings, through poor contact.
7) SADDLE BEDDING DOWN - The under saddle pickup may need to
bed down into any new saddle/pickup/ bridge arrangement, over a 1-4
day period. If necessary, this can be short cut by the more drastic
action in 8 iii). If there continues to be a problem, you may
re-attempt to achieve a flatter seating of the saddle and slot base
areas, a round routed slot base, or use a minimum amount of tape,
preferably fine adhesive metal tape, layered along the bottom of
saddle parts, as a shim. This may compensate for any slight gaps
as a result of inadequate seating, or string pressure imbalances,
but should not require more than 2 layers.
While tape can be a quick fix for U/S balance problems, and does not
usually affect the instrument’s acoustic tone or response, it can
slightly reduce the pickup output You may check for unwanted gaps
by careful pressing of each end of the saddle, with the instrument
amplified at low levels, listening for unwanted clunks.
8) STRING BIASING - As an alternatively to tape, a
curved saddle underside ( a slightly banana shaped profile?) can be
used to bias certain strings with additional pressure. However,
while flat slot routing produces excellent results, 2.4-
2.5 mm diameter half round routing is optimum. Headway
can supply the correct ball end, 2 Flute Carbide bit suitable for
compact Routers. Or via J&L Industrial Supply in US / UK Tel:
0044-(0) 800 66 33 55 / Fax: 0044-(0) - 5800 58. Part no: MCB40318D.
)
9) STRING BALANCE IMPROVEMENTS - i) A further method used to
attempt improved string balances, is by cutting fine, deep notches
on the underside of the saddle, midway between where each of the
strings pass over the saddle. If the instrument has double courses
(i.e. 12 Strings), do NOT cut notches in between the strings
in each pair/course. Instead, cut between course pairs.
This allows flex under string pressure, which may improve string
balances, but it is not the panacea sometimes assumed.
ii) Alternatively, clamping up the Guitar overnight, with pressure
applied between back and saddle, often seats the pickup correctly.
iii) Finally, a method of achieving better pickup seating which is
not openly reported but is commonly used, is to put a rounded
concave tip profile on a long narrow piece of scrap hardwood or
Dowel, which is then placed against string balance weak spot(s) on
the strung up saddle and struck firmly with a light hammer. While
we have never heard of any problems resulting from this method, we
urge caution, as excessive force could cause a problem, especially
on lightly built or structurally flawed instruments.
HOWEVER, THERE ARE NO QUICK FIXES FOR FITTING ANY UNDER SADDLE
PICKUP THAT JUSTIFY IGNORING GOOD PRACTICES & ACCURATE TOLERANCES.
10) NATIONAL RESOPHONIC, DOBRO PICKUP FITTING NOTES - i)
National’s pickups are best fitted with the piezo cable pickup
placed in a semi-circular routed slot arrangement, allowing
the pickup to be laid close to and parallel to the round edge of
the wooden Biscuit. The pickup should protrude fractionally from
its slot, sufficient to place pressure onto it, between the Biscuit
and the resonator cone. See Battery powering notes 19) & 20).
ii) Dobros may be fitted with single, standard length pickups
which can be made to bend around the centre saddle screw, with the
pickup under indirect string pressure either side of the screw.
Alternatively, non-standard twin pickups may be ordered to place
separate pickups, either side of the screw. See 16).
11) HARP, HAMMER DULCIMER & UD (OUD)- CUSTOM PICKUP FITTING
NOTES: Please note that the notes below supplement the general
fitting and “how to get the best...” principles. See Custom P/U
fitting 16).
I) Harp pickups are best laid alongside the entire length
of the sound board ( approximately 0.5m-1.3m), but under indirect,
even string pressure via a hardwood tongue or free strut routed for
the 2.5mm diameter pickup slot, where the string ends are fastened
to this tensioned free strut. The Harp requires more pre-amp gain
than may be possible via an adapted Snake P/U, therefore a modified
version of the HE1 range pre-amps will be required, in any format,
i.e. “C” with on board controls, FEQ Fixed EQ/No controls (Steel
strung), NYL/No controls (Nylon Strung), or “X”. Alternatively,
custom parallel wired numbers of the “Limpet” contact disc pickups
may be retro fitted.
ii) HAMMER DULCIMER pickups ( 2 wired in parallel to one
pre-amp) are best fitted along the entire length of both bridges,
preferably where continuous bridges are used rather than individual
Chessmen. In this latter case, we could not be certain that an
acceptable or consistent string balance could be achieved.
Alternatively, custom parallel wired numbers of the “Limpet” contact
disc pickups may be retro fitted.
iii) Ud (Oud)/ Lute Pickups can get excellent results using a
custom length version of “The Snake” with external exposure of all
components. The Nylon strings go directly over the plastic covered
stainless steel braid of the Pickup, which usually sits in a shallow
slant angled slot in the bridge, the positioning of which is chosen
according to where there is the most even and heavy string wrap
pressure. See 22) Non-intrusive jack socket mounting notes.
12) PICKUP DON’T DO’S
i) Do NOT use abrasives on “HE1” pickup;
ii) Do NOT crush, pull on, jam up, or kink the
pickup or wire & do not bend the black joint;
iii) Do NOT remove or knot the cable from the pickup.
(iv) Do not use water-based adhesives on HE1 Pickup.
13) PIEZO PRINCIPLES: The Piezo cable pickup works far better
when installed under high, but even pressure from strings (normally
indirectly pressured) and free to minuscule movement, i.e. not glued
in.
14) PICKUP ENTERING SLOT - Single pickups should be
inserted from the underside of the bridge, through a 2.5 mm +
(0.098” + ) hole, drilled at up to around 50 degrees (the shallower
the better!), to the plane of the saddle slot. The hole is often
better placed on the treble end of the saddle. You may bend the
pickup, although excessively steep bending, plus forceful insertion
of saddle, may cause the clear outer to split, compromising its
protective aspect slightly.
The pickup hole is better NOT drilled through a strut. If this
cannot be avoided, take care NOT to split the strut by drilling
gently, using a hand drill.
Excessive pickup length can be taped to the inside of the
instrument’s top to avoid excessive waggling.
15) PICKUP SLOT ROUTING ON MOVEABLE BRIDGES, the
pickup and its wire can be routed through a hole in the top of the
instrument, or through a hole in the side of the bridge, in order to
run the wire through the sound hole, under a raised scratch plate
(arch top), or along a tail piece. This method avoids the need to
drill the top of the instrument, but take care to anchor exposed
wires against accidental tugging or abrasion.
It may also be possible to bury the black pickup joint, in a
moveable bridge, by countersinking a hole of approximately 3.8mm
(0.15”), in the base of the bridge.
Where a hole is to be drilled through the top of the instrument for
a moveable bridge, mark out carefully where this hole is to line up
with the hole in the underside of the bridge, on the treble end.
After determining accurate intonation position, then allow for
movement, intonation and any slight inaccuracies, by making the hole
in the top of 4mm ( 0.16”) in diameter. See notes on P/U’s fitted to
raisable bridges 31).
16) CUSTOM PICKUPS: Twin Pickups are available to order at
any length, or for split saddles, Dobros
or wacky bridge saddle and top nut pairings. Two pickups on separate
cables wired in parallel into the same pre-amp will work
electronically as if they were one. When deciding a pickup length,
use string to simulate the length of pickup area plus the additional
length required for the bend before the thicker joint.
17) CONTROLS FITTING ON BOARD - e.g. HE1/G2.C ( Not
“X” models):
i) through the instrument’s body sides, as follows:
Mark out the insertion points for the controls,
checking that there is enough clearance inside the instrument’s body
to allow room for the pre-amp (54x25 mm) on shallow bodied
instruments, with the positioning of the controls, as required.
Then using a Brad Pointed Drill ( 7 mm / 0.28” diam.), make an
insertion on the side of the instrument, half way between the two
edges of the instrument, along a line parallel to those edges, where
the insertion points (mid points) of the holes are 1.2” (3.04cm)
apart. This standard, circuit track related dimension, is not at
all likely to change, and allows the “HE1” Series Pre-Amps, to more
easily replace other units, where applicable.
Alternatively, you may open up the hole in the sides, by a series of
drills, increasing gradually, from very fine, preferably opening out
the final stage by reaming/ rasping. A tapered reamer is usually
safest. (See Luthier Supplies outfits).
If mounted as above, the green fitting label should be facing the
inside of the instrument’s top.
As an alternative to side-by-side mounting, (with the volume
control nearest the top of the instrument body and the green fitting
label facing the headstock), the two pots can be mounted in line
(e.g. shallow bodied instruments with less than 54mm available depth
between ribs).
A template is provided with product to assist you in fitting
controls (where applicable). which may be cut out off the page
and placed against the instrument, to help check that the linings
are kept clear. See below.
The unit may be bolted through the holes made, using
the bush threads, with nuts & rubber shock washers provided, then
lining up the knobs to match the radius of sweep of the controls and
intended operational facing, before carefully easing them on.
ii) NON-INTRUSIVE CONTROLS FITTING - PRE-SETTING
As an alternative to controls through the body sides, controls
may be mounted on a roughly off centred “U” shaped metal plate
bracket, which screws to top block, allowing controls to be accessed
and pre-set via sound hole.
18) DRILLING TEMPLATE FOR “C” - On Body Controls Mounting Option.
N.B. See 17:
19) BATTERY
UNIT FITTING - i) HE1: For on board models this can be attached
to the inside of the body by the large strip of adhesive Velcro. As an
alternative, the units can be attached by double sided sticky tape, wood
glue, or size 4 Posidrive, countersunk screws supplied. Affix adhesive
Velcro only to clean, dry non-greasy surfaces. Surfaces may be cleaned
by affixing and tearing off sticky tapes from the area. Velcro provides
easier battery access, by lifting battery holder out.
ii) Snake’s battery attachments - The metal clip should be screwed
to the top block with screws provided, or screwed to a piece of wood,
which can be glued or Velcro’d to the top block. Alternatively, double
sided tape may be used to hold the clip in place while wielding the
screwdriver.
iii) For the External “X” Pre- amps, the PP3 (6F22) battery is
mounted in the black side compartment drawer, with a non-reversible
terminal on a flying lead.
Headway Battery cable is standard colour coded cable: red = positive /
black = negative. The terminal to “The Snake” is non-reversible on a
flying lead.
20) CUSTOM BATTERY FITTING - “f” HOLE/ NATIONAL STEEL -: “f”
hole/small round hole and Resophonic cone instruments may be accommodated
in terms of powering by using an external loading, quick change, pull
drawer battery holder, such as the Bulgin (UK), which we can offer.
Any fitting that may be subject to restricted access may be achieved by
using a pull through arrangement. In addition, if a through the side, pull
drawer battery holder was used, the rectangular hole created may be useful
for additional access during fitting. See 22) Non-intrusive fitting of
jack sockets.
Our most popular means of amplifying restricted access instruments is to
use an HE1 passive P/U on board the Guitar, with no On Board Battery or
pre-amp, as part of the HE1/G2.X system, which offers a belt mount
pre-amp. Alternatively, an external battery box can help.
21) EXTERNAL BATTERY BOX: External powering of an on board pre-amp
can be achieved by rigging up a simple external battery box with a mono
output to PA and a Stereo input from Guitar. The stereo lead from Guitar,
allows a boxed PP3 to power the Guitar pre-amp via 1 leg of the Stereo
lead (normally the ring - blue). The box may be belt or floor mounted &
need not be screened.
SNAKE EXTERNAL POWERING: First short out unused on board terminals by
connecting them together, then connect positive battery terminal in box to
ring (blue lead ) and connect negative to earth. This method cannot easily
be achieved by HE1 systems, which will have to be ordered.
22) JACK FITTING - i) 2 piece end pin jacks, supplied
as standard, are solder connected for ease of installation. These should
normally be fitted in the rear block, or end block of the instrument and
can replace the end strap button in its normal position, on the sides,
behind the bridge. It can be fitted, by masking off the area and drilling
a small diameter exploratory hole, checking that it lines up, at a perfect
right angle. This can then be drilled out with a larger drill.
The end pin hole should finally be reamed/rasped for the Switchcraft
socket diam. of 15/32” (11.9 cm). A 1/2” (1.27mm) reamer is ideal
for this job. Alternatively, use a Brad Pointed Drill. The jack should be
inserted into the inside of the body of the instrument with the large jack
hex nut & lock washer arranged as necessary, to allow only the smaller
threaded section to protrude from the end pin hole.
The distance between the hex nut and end pin is found by marking &
measuring a rod, inserted into the hole.
If there is a problem in getting a hand inside an instrument, thread a
fine cord through the end pin hole and out through the sound hole. The end
of the cord is then tied to the small hole on the narrow diameter part of
the end pin jack, which is then pulled into place through the sound hole
in the instrument. Use a rod through the jack socket hole, while you screw
on the washer/hex nut & end pin button, from outside.
If this small additional fitting hole is not in place, a pull through may
be achieved by using a special jack plug, which has had its metal body
turned/ground down to less than 15/32” (11.9mm)
Ensure that the fit is tight and that the external thread is fully home,
otherwise adjustments will have to be made to the nut, inside of the
instrument.
Take care not to allow the wires inside the instrument to get twisted
or to rattle.
ii) one piece end pin jacks are used, these can be inserted
from outside the instrument, but must be soldered to the cable, while it
is protruding from the end pin hole. If there is a problem in tightening
the hex nut inside, the socket can be held in place with wood
glue/friction. You may also wish to super glue the external hex nut to the
thread, before placing the unit in the end block, with external washer to
the body.
Several varieties of 1-piece E.P. Jack sockets offer a half turn, 5.5
turns, or 12 turns (clockwise). To compensate for this, allow the attached
unit to freely turn an equal number of turns in the same direction.
Alternatively, where the pickup is already fixed, twist the connecting
cable itself, by the a compensating number of anti -clockwise turns then
twist insert end pin jack clockwise.
iii) PANEL JACK SOCKETS: Alternatively, simple jack sockets can
be fitted to the side of the instrument, instead of using end pin
arrangements. However, an external mounting plate, metal washer and/ or
internal wooden block must be used. The Plates can be found in
Guitar/Electronics suppliers.
iv) NON-INTRUSIVE SOCKET MOUNTING - An in line, or end pin jack
socket may be fitted to the side of the instrument, or under a raised
scratch plate (arch top) without drilling by the use of black nylon
re-useable cable ties with matching tie bases carrying permanent adhesive
foam pads, available from Headway. the area of adhesion should be
cleaned free of grease or dust. For this arrangement, we recommend that
insertion or removal of the jack plug be supported by holding onto the
socket. Alternatively, a mounting bracket could be made, fitting to end
pin jack as a sturdy bolt on steel washer.
23) RE-WIRING JACKS SOCKETS - On certain sockets, the tip
contact has a smaller wire hole. If in doubt, check inside socket body.
The tip contact will be furthest inside.
Put covers, grommets, shrinks & strain relief over cable, twist up wires
and tin all contacts points before soldering. When changing a
socket, label the contacts before removal, to help in replacing
them.
See FEQ notes below (29), for changing end pin jacks.
To wire a stereo socket - Active On Board Units ( “Snake” & HE1 /
not “X” ) - solder connect the red insulated signal wire to the tip, blue
wire to the ring and non-insulated earth wire to the larger earth
terminal.
Non-active/passive units (e.g. “HE1 Passive” as part of “X” system) -
Solder connect the red signal wire to the tip and the non-insulated earth
wire to the earth connector. Mono, Stereo or 4 pole sockets are suitable.
24) WIRE LOCATION: Wires should normally be attached to the
least resonant parts of the inside of the body, such as blocks, struts,
ribs, or back/sides, by the small remaining strips of Velcro provided (HE1
Range only). In order to seat Velcro properly, press and wriggle
together.
25) MULTI-PICKUP SYSTEM - CUSTOM WIRING: The A-D Electronics
“Woodsome” end Pin Jack offers an additional (4th pole) to enable on board
battery switching plus two separate signals, such as two pickups or a
pickup and a mike, which may be routed via a stereo jack lead and mixed
off board.
The easiest means of off-board mixing for most musicians is the stereo to
2 x mono “Y” lead. Headway is able to offer the 4-pole end pin jack and
the “Y” lead. “Y” leads terminating in 1 mono jack and 1 mono XLR/ Cannon
are also available.
Core signal wires would be connected to tip and ring respectively, with
both outer braids to one larger earth terminal. The black or blue battery
wire connects to the 4th remaining (or additional earthing) terminal.
The more crucial signal should be wired to the tip, as this would be the
sole signal if a mono lead were used. Normally, for reasons of feedback
rejection, the under saddle pickup is wired to the tip.
“Y” LEAD JOINT CONSTRUCTION: Plan length to take comfortable
account of cable reach width between mono input sockets used, plus overall
length. Separately twist and tin the earth braids from the one stereo and
two mono cables to be joined, as well as the four core wires. Place
insulating/supporting shrinks (preferably glue filled shrinks) over 2
cores, and overall on braid, ensuring that earth braid cannot short to
signal core wires when shrinks are in place. Solder connect the two pairs
of inner core signal wires separately, side to side, then connect earth
braid cables side to side. Put core shrinks in place and heat. Then solder
connect earth braid to a copper outer wrap. Finally place outer shrink in
place and heat until tightly covering and supporting all metal components.
26) CONTROLS - CUSTOM ADDITIONS: “SNAKE”: Passive tone and volume
controls may be added by connecting pots to the grey, lap screened output
cable, and ensuring there is sufficient length to reach controls, and from
controls to end pin jack. These controls work in a similar way to those on
most electric guitars.
Use lap or braid screened cable, but terminals should not cause noticeable
interference if left unscreened, as they would be running low impedance.
VOL POT: As if looking from the shaft side with pins pointing down,
the right hand terminal would connect to the output wire (red) from the
pre-amp, the centre terminal provides the output from the volume pot,
while the left terminal would be earth (outer screen/bare cable).
You should further connect the earth to the body of the pot. We suggest
10k-25k(A) log for Volume, using a 4.7k resistor on the centre output
terminal of the volume control.
TONE POT: For adding to above, 10k-25k (B) Lin. is recommended.
Connect 220 nF capacitor, between the output from 4.7k resistor above, and
the centre terminal of tone pot ( capacitor wired in series with tone
pot). With above perspective, the Left terminal of tone pot connects to
earth and body of pot, while right terminal is unused. Circuit diagram -
available on request.
27) EARTHING NOTES - While pin bridges do not normally give such
trouble, tail pieces should be earthed to the jack socket, to prevent hum
pickup (50-60hz). If strings need to be earthed and cannot be addressed in
this way, an earthed strip to contact with ball ends may be possible.
28) PROBLEM CHECKLIST: See under “How To Get The Best Out of Your Pickup
System”: 13)
29) FEQ NOTES: These feature a broad fixed cut to the mid range and
a steeper low end body noise roll off. FEQ standard models use a 2
p.c. alum. pre-amp box, bolted via a screwed on plate to a 2 piece End Pin
Jack Socket , designed for SwitchcraftTM and related, plus the A-D
Electronics unit.
The FEQ Pre-amps are intended to be mounted inside the instrument, with
the socket fitting the end block in the usual way
The EPJ socket is supplied soldered on short flying leads, emanating from
the pre-amp section. Terminal access is made by removing the 2 screws
holding the mounting plate. DO NOT BREAK THE TAMPER EVIDENT LABEL on
the pre-amp section, AS THIS WILL INDEMNIFY GUARANTEES.
See socket wiring notes 23).
30) EXTERNAL ”X” SERIES SYSTEM NOTES: (e.g. HE1/G2 ”X
) are designed for belt/strap mounting of pre-amp, with the HE1 passive
Pickup fitted under the saddle in the normal way. They are supplied
with a high screen angle jack lead, to connect between the output
of the instrument and the input of the pre-amp. If you insist not mounting
the pre-amp this way, you will get best results if you ensure that only
good condition, high screen quality Instrument leads are used (max.:
20’ / 6.1m) and the shorter the better!
For the External pre- amps, the PP3 (6F22) battery is mounted under
the side compartment cover.
The HE1/G2.X enables immediate access to full control and quick battery
changing, without the need to drill instrument sides or alter instrument
appearance. It also allows a number of instruments to be fitted with the
HE1 Passive Pickup, at relatively low cost, which can then alternately use
the single External Pre-amp.
31) GUITAR & MANDOLIN ADJUSTABLE BRIDGE PICKUP FITTING NOTES - The
pickup is best fitted under a saddle, although it can be done with an
Ebony or black plastic piece, rather than bone. See Pickup fitting notes
on moveable bridges 15).
The raisable function may be retained, by deepening the shallow hole for
the bush/bolt to the base and allowing just the tip into a reduced depth
hole in the top half. In addition, you must ensure that the top half has
at least 1 cm either side of the string courses.
The revised bush & top half arrangement allows more space in the top half
to account for the depth of the saddle and the bend in the pickup. This
pickup bend takes the signal down through the leg of the bridge via
joint to co-axial cable,
As an alternative, with no saddle, merely rout a P/U slot into a
continuous, even bridge base with no feet, to insert fractionally
protruding pickup, under indirect string pressure, but in contact with
body. A refined variation on this is to seat the pickup under indirect
string pressure in the routed bridge base from a wood tongue, the bottom
of which rests against the instrument top.
Then either take black/brown co-axial cable:
i) through the top, under the leg of the bridge;
ii) out of the front or back via a bridge base notch.
Copyright: Headway ©1996 & revised ©2001
*All Rights Reserved.
Validate your guarantee by sending back the card enclosed with product. Or find out more about Headway products from: Headway, Units 4-5, Home Farm Works, Clifton Road, Deddington, Nr. Banbury, Oxfordshire. OX15 0TP. UK
sales@headwayelectronics.com
Website:
www.headwayelectronics.com
Acoustic stringed instruments:
www.acousticdirect.com
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